Things are changing quite a bit in the snoozy village of Chablis as the growers now can decide entirely on their own as to when the harvest commences. For decades the start of the vintage, called the ‘Bonne de vendange’, was determined by the local I.N.A.O. inspector.
For the last 3 years or more this important rule was abolished and growers now choose for themselves when they begin to pick. Well that may be fine, but, enter the Americans who don’t particularly like the traditional mineral or flinty character that is what Chablis is supposed to represent.
Guess what? Many growers now have decided to pick later to produce a softer, fruitier style without any of the village thumb-print. Well, I for one think it is lamentable as many growers do no longer have a Chablis identity as far as I am concerned.
This style of Chardonnay could mirror a Macon Blanc or Napa Valley Chardonnay or Margaret river white. You can be assured that I will never, ever countenance this ridiculous alternative and all the Chablis we offer now and into the future will reflect the traditional Chardonnay that I met in Chablis on my first visit in 1976.